![]() |
Although hidden deep in their canyons, Zrmanja and Krupa aren't isolated. There are two basic ways from which you can approach these rivers: the direction Gračac-Knin-Obrovac, and Gračac-Obrovac.
Along the upper flow there is a major road Zagreb-Gračac-Knin, which goes along Zrmanja all the way to Kravlji bridge. Therefore, access to Zrmanja spring is easy. All you have to do is turn from the road toward the viallage Zrmanja Vrelo, form where you can walk along the right bank to Vrelo. Close to Kravlji bridge it is possible to turn from the road Gračac-Knin on macadam toward Mokro polje, where you can, when you cross the bridge in Mokro polje, continue along the left bank toward Ervenik. Although it gives awesome views on the river Zrmanja, the road is poorly maintained. The other way is to turn from the road Gračac-Knin before you reach Knin, and take the asphalt road toward Ervenik. In both cases, the macadam road from Ervenik to Kaštel Žegarski is inevitable. From Kaštel Žegarski there is a wide asphalt road all the way to Obrovac. It is possible to turn toward Zrmanja in two spots. From Kaštel Žegarski the road goes over the bridge on Zrmanja toward the river Krupa and Krupa Monastery from where you can come to the ablaut Prezid on the road Gračac-Obrovac. The other arm to Zrmanja is on the part of the road between Bogatnik and Bilišani from where you can get to village Berberi, and further on across the bridge on Berberov fall and into Muškovci. Through Muškovci the road leads you above HE "Velebit" and connects to the road Gračac-Obrovac near Obrovac.
The direction Gračac-Obrovac is more attractive for touring the river Krupa and the middle part of Zrmanja. From the ablaut Prezid there is a magnificent view on canyons of both rivers, but you have to turn from this road in order to come closer. Immediately after ablaut Prezid there the road intersects toward Krupa Monastery and the river of the same name, and from there you can go to the spring of Krupa or toward Kaštel Žegarski on Zrmanja. In order to approach the middle part of Krupa's flow it is necessary to turn before Krupa Monastery in village Golubić on the macadam road toward the south-west. Lower from the turn to Krupa, almost in Obrovac, it is possible to take the asphalt road to Muškovci from where there is a way to Berbera buk on Zrmanja.
Tourism
It is hard to say is it more beautiful to tour these rivers walking along their canyons or floating on their waters. Views which can be seen from tops of the canyons, are not available to observers in boats, and vice versa. It is best to combine both ways.
Zrmanja and Krupa are certainly rivers with a huge tourism potential. The problem is in the extraordinary sensitivity of their ecosystems, so we have to be very careful when developing and exploiting this potential. Several agencies offer rafting and canoeing on Zrmanja and Krupa. Is is certainly better to go rafting in spring when the waters are higher, and knowing the temperature of both rivers is pretty low even in summer, you wont miss a warm bath. Information about tours can be obtained in Obrovac, where you can't get hotel accomodation at the moment, and it isn't certain if you'll find it in private rooms. On the Obrovac bank you can sign up for one day excursions with boats up to Jankovića buk and downstream to the mouth of the river into Novigrad sea.
Although rivers Zrmanja and Krupa are interesting form the aspect of sport fishing, it is completely neglected, and you can't buy a fishing permit nowhere in the vicinity of the river. Mountain climbing in this area is mostly oriented on the are of Southeast Velebit (1127 m), Vilenski vrh (1058 m), Prolog (984 m), Četinarnica (1180 m) and Čelavac (1207 m). Here we have to mention Tulove grede. The shape of these rocks is incredible, and it looks most impressive from the quiet valley of Zrmanja. Crnopca group are the last south-east slopes Crnopac (1404 m) and Tremzina (1187 m).
Cerovačke caves are on the Lika side of Crnopac, with total length of 2000 m, and make the most beautiful cave complex in Croatia. They are the only ones arranged for visitors, although not the only speleologic object in this area. There is sheep and goat breeding by most of the local population, and a rich gastronomic variety of foods, which could be fullfiled with pastry made in stone ovens and from grain out of mills on Zrmanja and Krupa, some of which are still operating.
What is missing from the aspect of a quality tourist service, is an organization which will manage the whole area in an ecologically acceptable manner, and co-ordinate and supervise tourist agencies, give them marketing space and invest in further development and protection. The most appropriate solution would be the founding of a public instution called Park of Nature "Zrmanja and Krupa".